L’Avant Comptoir de la Terre

Meaty French sharing plates & a long wine list in a compact, modern bar at an upmarket hotel.

L'Avant Comptoir de la Terre is Yves Camdeborde's standing wine bar on the Left Bank—a narrow room hung with charcuterie where natural wine and small plates are consumed standing at the bar in the tradition of the Basque pintxos bar. The sibling to the seafood-focused Comptoir de la Mer next door, it represents the informal but deeply serious wing of Camdeborde's enormous influence on Paris eating.